by erin thursby scopes1925@msn.com
One of the culinary trends that really seems to be strong in Jacksonville is elevating foods that formerly belonged to the realm of cheap, easy and fast. Thai food, for example, used to be consigned to take out and family owned hole-in-the-wall places. But we have a number of higher end restaurants (Pom’s, Galangal and Lemongrass among others) which cater to a more upscale price and atmosphere. Following in that tradition is Cantina Laredo, which serves gourmet Mexican cuisine.
You might be asking yourself why you would spend from $12-24 or more for a Mexican meal when you can get one for much less at some of the family-style favorites here in Jacksonville. It’s all about quality, presentation and theater. Half of dining is the experience and atmosphere a restaurant can give you. It’s all about what you want. If you want a place that makes your guacamole table-side with the freshest of ingredients, then Cantina Laredo is for you. I’ve always been fascinated by food preparation, so watching someone make my guac before my eyes is a plus. Because they are competing with other, lower cost places that also serve Mexican, they’ve gotta have a gimmick (as Gypsy Rose Lee might say).
The Cantina Laredo’s décor is done on a larger scale, because they have a large restaurant. There’s an expansive bar decorated with large bowls of lemons and limes. Unsurprisingly, they serve excellent margaritas, which you can upgrade with high-end tequilas such as Patron. Large earthenware vases add interest and colorful dishes filled with avocados decorate each table instead of flowers. There’s a private seating area tucked away in the back, which can be reserved for small parties of twenty-five or less.
As a heat seeker, I love spicy. There wasn’t really anything that took my breath away in the spice department, but most people don’t look for the level of heat that I do. When spice heat was present, it was subtle and it worked with the other flavors. On the botanas platter, the stuffed jalapeños were fairly mild with a spicy finish. The spice present in some of the dishes tended to sneak up on me, and it was only at the end of the bite that I would experience the fullness of it. That can be good, because it means that I got to taste all of the flavors before the zing commandeered my taste buds. It came on slow and disappeared quickly, leaving me ready for the next bite and hungry for more.
The salsas did bring the heat I was craving. I enjoyed their standard salsa, but it was the smoky flavor of the tomatillo sauce that really engaged my palate. Each morning they roast the fresh peppers that go into this flavor fest.
I did long for more seasoning in the tacos al pastor, but the tender chicken fajitas and the beef, shrimp and vegetable skewers made up the difference.
Don’t be afraid to order carne asada or the rib eye, because steak is one of the areas at which they excel. For a dish that will give its all, try the carmaron poblano asada. It’s their skirt steak wrapped around a large, mild poblano pepper filled with their savory sautéed shrimp, mushrooms, onions and Monterey jack cheese served on a chimichurri sauce (a freshly wrought sauce of cilantro, garlic and lemon juice). The cararon poblano asada came with a charming veggie medley of sliced zucchini, toasted almonds and lively, fresh green beans.
The Mexican apple pie also came with a little bit of theatre. In front of you, they set the pie on your own personal hot skillet, top it with ice cream and bath it in Mexican brandy butter, which sizzled merrily as it cascaded down the ice cream and over the pie. The wafting smell of cinnamon and apple was almost as intoxicating as their tequilas are.
But does Cantina Laredo really give you an authentic gourmet Mexican experience? I’d say it’s a very Americanized version of Mexican, but they make up for it by using fresh, excellent ingredients and offering a bit of culinary theater. Order the items in red for the best possible dining experience, since these are the items they’re known for.
Cantina Laredo 10282 Bistro Drive (in the St. Johns Town Center) (904) 997-6110
Article Published in the 03-08 Issue of EU Jacksonville
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