by erin thursby scopes1925@msn.com
Unlike the somewhat homogenized kitsch of Joe’s Crab Shack, J.L. Trent’s is homegrown kitsch. A glance around any of their restaurants reveals their tacky-but-cool sense of fun. Each location is a little different, but you can expect the same sense of nautical nostalgia. At one of their locations, you’ll find a dolphin statue sitting next to a figurine of an old mariner, while specialized lights hang from the oars.
It’s been ten years since the first J.L. Trent’s opened up here in Jacksonville, offering locals battered and fried seafood at a reasonable price. Now there are three locales here in Jacksonville: one on the Westside, one in Yukon (across from NAS Jax), and their newest locale in Marietta/Whitehouse.
Before the meal begins, you’ll be served Trent’s gratis starter, their cream cheese based shrimp dip with crackers. A touch of liquid smoke, scallions, shrimp and various top-secret ingredients make up this delicious signature starter.
For an appetizer, J.L. Trent’s is best known for their fried pickle chips. Fried pickles have become popular in the last few years and have started showing up on various menus, but not all fried pickles are created equal. J.L. Trent’s definitely uses the right kind of pickle- wavy cut so the breading adheres and thick enough to stand up to the fryer. They make the dipping sauce right on the premises, so it’s always fresh.
If you’re game, try the gator tail. They marinate it before deep-frying it, so it’s very tender. You can order a smaller portion from the appetizers menu (called “Tummy Temptations”) or you can get a Florida Gator Tail Dinner.
J.L. Trent’s is a family-owned operation, with the Trent brothers (James and Raymond) running the show. “I grew up in the seafood business,” says James when asked why he chose to open restaurants in his native Jacksonville. James is at one of the locations nearly every day, making sure things are just right.
Their family atmosphere extends to their regular customers, who are all known by name by the wait staff. James himself has been known to sit down to eat with regulars he’s friendly with. The staff goes out of their way to make you feel welcome and at home, in a real country-style seafood setting.
The sides here are served up Southern-style, with a bit of bacon for flavor. Collard greens and black-eyed peas are the favored sides. Their fresh coleslaw is also a fast favorite with the locals. Nearly everything comes with one of Trent’s sweet hush puppies, which are surprisingly light. The only side that didn’t really strike my fancy was the corn.
Obviously, seafood graces most of the plates at J.L. Trent’s. The catfish is served whole (headless) or in fillet form. Their light cornmeal batter underscores the freshness of the fish and doesn’t weigh it down. Because they strive to buy local seafood, shrimp is one of the dishes for which they’re most known, whether fried or boiled. More often than not, it comes straight off the shrimp trawlers in Mayport.
The dinner portion for their grill-flavored salmon is a huge 12 ounces. At only $14, this dish is a steal. The same is true of their New York Strip steak, which weighs in at a hefty 12 ounces and only costs $15. (You can add shrimp to the steak meal for just $3 more).
Salads are also quite substantial for their price, and come with a variety of different toppings such as blackened chicken, jumbo shrimp, Buffalo chicken, Mahi, tuna steak or grouper.
The most expensive stuff on the menu is under “Clawed Critters,” where you’ll find lobster and crab legs. Their crab legs are served with a bit of Old Bay seasoning sprinkled on the legs, and the flavor is good enough that you don’t even need butter.
During crawfish season they sometimes get shipments straight from Louisiana. Crawfish aren’t on the menu, but many people watch their special boards eagerly.
Trent’s also offers desserts including deep-fried cheesecake, brownie bites and Key Lime pie. The Key Lime pie comes from a local provider and it’s a classic recipe. Do try it, if you have room!
All kinds of folks here in Jacksonville make it out to Trent’s. It’s a family-oriented place where you can get reasonably priced seafood in a homey atmosphere. There’s even a senior menu for the grandparents (55 and over) and a “Little Critters” menu for the kids.
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