by erin thursby scopes1925@msn.com
Jacksonville foodies are always looking so hard for the newest, best thing, so they sometimes neglect the established places that consistently turn out some of the best cuisine on the East Coast.
One such place is the elegant Matthew’s in San Marco. This year marks the 10th year they’ve been open here in Jacksonville. Not a year goes by without one or more accolades from institutions local, statewide and even national. They still receive awards and they’re always on any listing of fine restaurants. Matthew’s has its core of loyal customers, but for those outside the core, it’s a place that many people talk about going to but don’t because it isn’t new news anymore. Folks assume that it will always be there. One day those same people will go to make a reservation (ten or twenty years from now) and realize that Matthew has retired. Don’t make this mistake. If you can afford a luxury, you should indulge in it while you can. If you haven’t been and you’ve talked about going—go, enjoy! Yes, it’s expensive, but it’s worth the experience.
Say the name Matthew Medure here in Jacksonville and you get quite a reaction from local food enthusiasts. Even locals who aren’t into food seem to have a dim response to his name. It might be the alliteration, but I think it’s because he’s mentioned often enough that it’s nearly impossible for a longtime local not to recognize the name on some level. His food rep is solid gold, so he’s in demand at charity and community events.
Matthew’s goes for a contemporary upscale look, with lighter woods, grays and nearly neutral purple accents. There are touches of metal throughout the room, just enough to give it that contemporary look, without making it too urban. Atop a blonde wood pillar perches Matthew’s signature heavy bronze of a raven, who surveys all the edible masterpieces from his perch.
Matthew’s shines as far as service is concerned. You will feel special and pampered by the end of your meal. In no way, though, could Matthew’s be considered “upscale-casual dining.” Some bistros have a comparable menu and food quality, but the emphasis is on casual elegance. Most of Florida is filled with eateries that toss out the formalities, so if you’re a native Floridian you might not be accustomed to wait staff who place your napkin in your lap or who present the label of the wine before pouring. (Although I think label presentation should be more common than it is.) Matthew’s serves their elegance straight up, with no chaser. That’s why it’s a great destination for a very special evening out. You’re paying the extra dollars not just for the food on the plate, but also for the theater of the dining experience and the opportunity, for one night, to feel like a VIP.
As far as alcohol is concerned, Matthew’s has the bases covered. Don’t expect Natural Light or Colt 45, but do expect some fine choices in liqueurs and wine. They’ve received awards of excellence from Wine Spectator for 6 years, so you’ll find what you need on the wine list.
The menu is seasonal and it constantly changes, as it should in a finer restaurant. I’d characterize the food as Fine American. Most people just call that Continental, but I believe we can be just as fancy. It’s American as far as I’m concerned because there’s a fusion of ingredients from different cultures, without doing anything too far off the track.
The dishes are traditional with a twist, like their Maine Lobster, which was served on a bed of pineapple salsa (a blend of red peppers, onion and pineapple) with a line of sweet soy for garnish and flavor. The micro-green, baby radish sprouts added just a little something in color and flavor, but, because they’re not the full grown version, the sharp radish flavor wasn’t pronounced or overpowering. There’s a definite Hawaiian, pan- Asian influence in this presentation.
People are impressed by the size of a large Maine Lobster, but at Matthew’s they know that it’s quality and not quantity that counts when it comes to cooking the perfect lobster tail. They purposely order slightly smaller Maine Lobsters (which are about the size of a hefty Florida Lobster) because the larger ones are often tougher. This choice in selection, as well as using special cooking techniques, ensures that the lobster is as sweet and as tender as it can possibly be.
A beautiful presentation of their dishes is also a signature of Matthew’s. The lobster was served, on an amber plate, picking up the gold tones in the red of the lobster. The greens sprinkled atop the lobster had just a touch of reddish purple running through them. Under the lobster was a bed of bright yellow pineapple salsa, a contrast in texture, taste and appearance. I could go on about the lobster. And on. But I did eat other things.
As far as beef is concerned, Matthew’s uses one of my favorite providers—Painted Hills. Their grass fed beef is nothing short of incredible, but it’s hard to find here on the East Coast. I ate what looked like a layered meat mosaic, stacked napoleon style, with a carrot-topped, boneless, so–tender-it-devastated-me rib, a fillet, a layer of truffle spaghetti squash and smashed potatoes.
It was finally time for my favorite course: dessert. It was hard to imagine dessert topping the experience of dinner, but I’m always willing to try. Matthew’s is one of the few places that consistently serves sweet soufflés. While I waited for my soufflé, I had a “dessert appetizer” a tiny taste of their incredible opal basil sorbet, an intense experience of savory and sweet. The soufflé, of course, was as beautiful as the rest of the meal, and I got the added pleasure of watching the waiter pour the sweet cream into the soufflé.
Like all of the meal, it was an experience in taste, theater and visual art that I will always remember.
2107 Hendrix Avenue | phone: 396- 9922 | $$$$
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EU Critic’s Choice Awards
