by erin thursby scopes1925@msn.com
With dark wood paneling, Sinatra crooning, black accents and red tablecloths, Angelo’s isn’t short on classy retro-style atmosphere. The food is something I crave--uncomplicated Americanized Italian. Angelo’s has a history of more than thirty years in Jacksonville. They were closed for two years before being re-opened by its new owners, Paul Rohan and Don Werkema. Always a neighborhood favorite, locals were happy to see the place being re-opened this past November.
What has stayed the same since Angelo’s has changed hands, is the neighborhood sensibility. Chef Ian Gabbe tells EU that “the majority of the staff are from the Arlington area, a lot of them live less than 4 blocks away.”
The biggest difference between the new Angelo’s and the old Angelo’s, according to Chef Gabbe is “more of an emphasis on fresh ingredients.” Undeniably, there is a bistro sensibility to the food that will be placed before you, especially with non-fried items like the tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil. This very basic but lush appetizer was finished with basil-infused olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar. They are starting over with the menu, still offering Italian food, but using their own recipes. A few popular favorites, like the baked spaghetti and meatballs, made it over from the old menu. You can order their sought-after pasta selections for lunch or dinner.
Another important difference is that Angelo’s will now be open for lunch, with lower priced items for the lunch crowd. Word has started to trickle out that eatery is now open for lunch ahead of schedule, something that they were slated to do in January but have begun this month.
Paul and Don also own Pauly’s New York Pizzeria on Monument in Regency. You can see the influence of Pauly’s menu on Angelo’s menu as you scan the lunch menu and the pizza selections. Items like the whimsically named “Tighty Whitey” (a ricotta, mozzarella and garlic pizza) and “the Pauly Meatbally” are lifted straight from the Pauly menu. Lunch features many of the hero sandwiches you’ll find at Pauly’s, which is likely why they’re ahead of schedule in offering up lunch.
Beverages include standard beer and wine selections, as well as a full liquor bar. Most of the décor was kept from the old restaurant, but a few things were refreshed and refurbished. New wallpaper, a few reupholstered chairs and artwork from local artists like MactruQue and Sage Steven’s New York photo studies complete the look of the new Angelo’s.
The entrées here are of course more upscale than the lunch offerings. I lovingly consumed the artfully presented chicken piccata. The moist juices of the tender chicken breast were sealed in by an egg batter (Français style) served atop a bed of zucchini and green peppers with a flavorful lemon and chicken stock reduction laced with capers. Each entrée item comes with a choice of salads.
To end my meal, I had their Roma tiramisu, a well presented dessert criss-crossed with chocolate and caramel. I was torn between the rich-sounding chocolate cake and the tiramisu, but in the end, I had to go with something classically Italian, and I wasn’t disappointed.
Large parties can be scheduled at Angelo’s with a reservation. Chef Gabbe is excited about a party slated for the weekend: “A couple that came in every year for their anniversary, obviously hasn’t been able to come in here the last couple of years [will be here]…This year is their 50th wedding anniversary and their children found out that we were re-opening and set up a party. It’s going to be about 35 people.”
There’s something on the menu for everybody at Angelo’s, and they even provide a kid’s menu for the little ones. If you’re looking for a neighborhood restaurant with an upscale atmosphere and Italian comfort food, Angelo’s is the place to go.
Restaurant: Angelo’s Italian Restaurant
You’ve worked at Pastiche, with the San Marco Group and Crush during your career in Jacksonville. Besides that, did you receive any formal training?
ACFI basically sponsored me through FCCJ…My instructor was John L. Wright, who is a culinary icon here in Jacksonville, he’s trained a lot of people here. He’s one of the coolest old guys you’ll ever meet.
If you were trapped on a dessert island, besides a chef knife, what kitchen tool would you bring?
I think probably a big mallet, a big meat tenderizer.
What’s your favorite dish to make?
I like doing sauté. That’s probably the thing I have the most fun doing, because there’s flames…and stuff’s flying.
What’s your favorite spice to use?
I don’t know that I have an overall favorite, I mean, I use thyme in just about everything that I do, but that’s just the basic background…I’m kind of partial to tamarind.
What’s your favorite dish to eat?
I’m a moody person, all depends on my mood. I love food…I have standbys everywhere I go to eat. Bistro Aix, I usually eat the tuna if I don’t have anything else I want to try. Pastiche does…a grouper Provencal that’s really good.
What’s the most decadent dessert at Angelo’s?
The chocolate cake, it’s…a five layer chocolate cake and it stands about 8 feet tall (laughs)—Well it’s pretty tall, anyway. It’s a thin wedge but it’s tall and very rich.
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